El Bodegón is a casual Argentinian steakhouse with a focus on grilled steaks and Peruvian ceviches, tiraditos, and antichuchos. They have the best value steaks in town with quality cuts, including rib-eyes, striploins, rump steaks, skirt steaks and tenderloins. It’s an owner-operator restaurant, run by a tight-knit team whose ethos is all about accessibility and consistency.
We speak to the founders at el Bodegón to hear how they got their start and the dedication needed to run a restaurant.
Meet the Founders: el Bodegón
First, tell us who are the people behind el Bodegón and how you met.
Diego: Several people are and have been involved in el Bodegón but the core team has been together since the opening of the first Bodegón (Changshu Lu) back in March 2014.
I had been working in F&B for many years, established a pizzeria in Montpellier, France, before heading to China in 2010 and very soon started working in Argentine and Peruvian restaurants in Shanghai. That’s how I met Raymond, our main Chinese partner; he is the tall guy dispatching steaks at our Changshu location on weekends.
In those early years (2010-2013) I also met Asang and Dongzi who are now in charge of the kitchens of both restaurants, Jason who has been patrolling the Changshu restaurant pretty much since day one, as well as Lena and Mary who oversee operations at the Panyu location. I’ve known all of them for close to 10 years now. Hugo Rodriguez is not involved anymore, but he consulted on the Peruvian dishes in the first months following the opening (he is now an independent chef consultant).
Then, there is my brother Javier and our Uruguayan cousin Gabriel who have been through thick and thin since the beginning. Yeah, they are the “barra bravas” (fanatical supporters) of el Bodegón.
What is the origin story of el Bodegón—why’d you decide to open a restaurant?
Diego: China started importing Argentinean beef towards the end of 2013, so we needed to do something. I guess there was a niche opportunity for a Bodegón.
What is the ethos of el Bodegón?
Javier: The ethos is something that grew organically. We wanted to work in an environment we were confortable in. Hosting is fun when it’s inclusive and it starts with accessibility and consistency. El Bodegón doesn’t change its menu. It doesn’t introduce seasonal dishes. A sixth cut of beef or a new cocktail pop in once in a while, but the core menu is static. We are not a place that “innovates”. People come back for the same and have been doing so for years.
If we do have an ethos, then it has been worked out organically with the participation of regular costumers who make up a disproportionate percentage of patrons. Bodegones are very much “barrio” establishments, they exist because of the community surrounding it. It’s a down-to-earth, no-frills casual establishment.
How are you able to maintain such affordable prices in one of the most expensive cities to live in?
Raymond: I roamed Shanghai for about two years before finding our current second location on Panyu Lu; to maintain affordable prices we need affordable rent; not an easy feat in Shanghai.
Gabriel: We source our own beef, that’s really crucial when it comes to managing cost and offering competitive prices.
What are the pros and cons of being a small business owner?
Javier: Pros include freedom when it comes to taking days off. Cons? Not taking any holidays for the first three years.
Diego: Pros—Shanghai is very cosmopolitan and a lot of people like steaks. It’s a massive city, that’s definitively an advantage when you need to rotate your customer base. Cons: Shanghai changes constantly, you need to keep up and adapt. You really do.
El Bodegón Changshu Lu location was established in 2014 and has been going strong since—what can you attribute to your success?
Raymond: Not sure it’s success but perhaps a fortuitous survival instinct. We had some very rough patches in the past but we came out on top.
Gabriel: We were and still are a close and tight unit, having worked many hours for many years without holidays to make it work. This includes the staff you don’t see on your visit. It helps when people get along and work together.
Diego: We are owner-operated. We dabble in several languages, people feel more at home when you can take their order in their language or relate on a personal level because you’ve lived in their countries. Mi casa, tu casa.
You’ve recently opened a second location on Panyu Lu, what’s different about it versus Changshu Lu?
Diego: It’s a different neighborhood. It’s not as hectic as Jing’an yet the vibe is similar. The main difference is the (heated) terrace outside and some extra dishes like pizza and sandwiches.
Javier: Different staff, different personalities. But yeah, the vibe is similar.
Raymond: …and the Templo del Futbol!
The football paraphernalia—it’s everywhere. Please explain.
Javier: Is it that much? (Ha!) Folks have been bringing decorative banners and posters from South America as tribute to the restaurant and we just put them up. We all have our allegiances though.
Gabriel: Except Peñarol! No banners from that team, ha! (They’re archenemies in Uruguayan clásico with Nacional.)
Diego: Football is one thing that keeps us closer to home I guess.
Tell us about your favorite dishes at el Bodegón.
Javier: Milanesa Napolitana, comfort food for many Argentinians including myself.
Diego: A medium tenderloin.
Raymond: A juicy skirt steak with lemon.
Gabriel: Tuna tiradito followed by a medium-well skirt steak
How about drinks, and why?
Javier: I drink mate, we all do and there is always one being passed around.
Diego: Glass of Malbec, what else?
Raymond: Argentinian Gin & Tonic, it’s unique for this city.
Gabriel: Pisco sour, perfect balance.
WHERE
el Bodegón
Panyu Lu:
2/F, 326 Panyu Lu, near Fahuazhen Lu
番禺路326号2楼， 近法华镇路
Mon-Fri 5-10:30pm
Sat 11am-10:30pm
Sun 11am-10pm
Tel: 62260780
Changshu Lu:
4/F, 83 Changshu Lu, near Julu Lu
常熟路83号4楼, 近巨鹿路
Mon-Fri 5-10:30pm
Sat 4-10:30pm
Sun 12-10pm
Tel: 54651275
Scan the QR code below to
make a reservation at
el Bodegón Panyu Lu
扫描下方二维码完成el Bodegón（番禺路店）预订
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与el Bodegón创始团队面对面
el Bodegón是沪上著名的休闲阿根廷牛排馆，以烤牛扒，秘鲁鱼生ceviche、tiraditos、以及腌肉串烧antichuchos等一系列主打菜式著称。餐厅供应性价比极高的牛排，包括肉眼、西冷、臀肉、裙肉、里脊这样的优质部位。作为一家走业主经营模式的餐厅，他们拥有一支关系紧密的团队，努力为消费者提供着亲民而稳定的出品。
最近，我们和el Bodegón的创始团队坐下来聊了聊，听他们讲述餐厅的发展历程，以及经营一家餐厅需要的专注与恒心。
首先，请讲讲el Bodegón餐厅幕后的团队吧，你们是怎么认识的？
Diego：我们的核心团队从2014年Bodegón在常熟路开第一家店起，就一起工作了，期间陆续也有其他人参与进来。
我在F&B领域工作很多年了，最早在法国蒙彼利埃开了一家披萨店，2010年搬来中国不久，就开始在上海的阿根廷和秘鲁餐厅工作，我在工作中又遇到我们的中国合伙人Raymond，就是那个每周末在我们常熟路店分拣牛排的高个子小哥。
我在中国最早的几年（2010-2013）还遇到了阿桑和东子，现在是我们两家餐厅的主厨，Jason也从开店第一天起就是常熟路的店长，另外Lena和Mary目前在管理番禺路店的运营，我认识他们所有人都将近十年了。Hugo Rodriguez已经不参与餐厅业务了（他现在是独立厨师顾问），但最初开业的几个月里，他一直担任我们秘鲁菜的顾问。
我哥哥Javier，还有我们的乌拉圭亲戚Gabriel，也陪我经历了开店后的风风雨雨，他们算是el Bodegón的狂热支持者吧。
说说el Bodegón诞生的故事？你为什么会决定开一家餐厅呢？
Diego: 中国从2012 Q3左右开始进口阿根廷牛肉，所以我觉得有必要做点什么，这对于一家Bodegón肉馆来说算是很精准的商业机会。
el Bodegón的经营理念是什么？
Javier: 我们想做一些可以有机发展的东西，让自己在一个很舒服的环境里工作。服务客人这件事本身很有趣，但前提是你要能够提供既亲民又稳定的出品。El Bodegón基本不换菜单，也不出什么季节时令菜单，有时候我们确实会加一种牛肉部位的选择，或者出一杯新鸡尾酒什么的，但核心菜单是不会变的。我们并不是一家“创新”的店，客人就是冲着你的老菜或者说招牌菜来的，就是要十年如一日。
至于理念或者宗旨，那都是和我们的餐厅常客们共同摸索出来的，这些熟客真的占了我们顾客群特别大的一部分。传统的Bodegón（小酒馆）几乎都是依赖周边社区生存，它们很接地气，没有任何花哨的东西，是让人真正放松下来的地方。
在上海这座那么贵的城市里，你们是怎么做到如此高性价比的？
Raymond: 我在上海兜了差不多两年，才找到现在番禺路的店面。为了保证高性价比，我们也需要高性价比的房租，而这在上海并非易事。
Gabriel: 我们的牛肉都是自己进、自己选的，对成本控制和价格的竞争力来说真的很重要。
做为老板，经营一桩小生意的好处和坏处有哪些？
Javier: 好处是很自由，你想休假的时候不用纠结请几天假。坏处？刚开店的时侯整整三年都没出去玩过一天……
Diego: 好处：上海是个超级大都市，有很多人喜欢牛排，当你想要调整一下顾客群的时候，这绝对是个优势。坏处：这个城市瞬息万变，你永远要跟上潮流、努力适应，但这真的蛮累的。
El Bodegón 常熟路店2014年开张到现在，一直经营得不错，有什么好的成功心得？
Raymond: 其实不知道现在能否算成功，但原因可能在机缘，以及强烈的求生欲。前几年经营的时候也有不少磕磕绊绊，但我们都熬过来了。
Gabriel: 我们自始至终都是关系非常紧密的团队，长年累月连轴转、不带停歇地工作，努力让这家店运作起来。这其中很多都要归功于我们那些幕后的团队和员工，大家齐心协力才能把事情做好。
Diego: 我们是家业主经营的店，总是在不同的语言间切换。我们可以用客人的语言跟他们点单，也可以像老朋友那样聊天，在这样的环境里，大家就像在家里一样舒心。有句话叫“Mi casa，tu casa”，我的家就是你的家。
你们刚刚在番禺路开了第二家店，跟长乐路比起来有什么不同？
Diego: 是不一样的街区，没有静安那么喧闹，但氛围有点相似。但最主要的区别是番禺路店多了一个带暖气的露台，菜单里还加入了披萨、三明治这样的单品。
Javier: 不同的团队，不一样的个性，但yeah，气质是很相近的。
Raymond: …以及随处可见的足球周边。
对，你们店里到处都是足球周边…请解释一下？
Javier: 哈哈哈有那么多吗？！有很多顾客从南美带了足球类的装饰标语送给餐厅当礼物，然后我们就挂起来了，但我们每个人都是不同足球俱乐部的铁粉。
Gabriel: 除了Peñarol！店里没有支持他们的标语哦，他们是乌拉圭Nacional俱乐部的劲敌。
Diego: 足球就是我们的乡愁。
说说el Bodegón你最喜欢的一道菜？
Javier: Milanesa Napolitana （脆皮牛里脊）, 它是阿根廷的国民comfort food 。
Diego：五分熟牛里脊。
Raymond：充满汁水的裙肉牛排配柠檬。
Gabriel：金枪鱼生鱼片（Tiradito de Atun）加一份七分熟的薄裙肉牛排。
最喜欢的饮料／酒呢？为什么？
Javier: 马黛茶，店里人见人爱的常备饮品。
Diego: 马尔贝克，还有什么？
Raymond: 阿根廷金汤力，对这座城市来说挺特别的。
Gabriel: Pisco sour，完美的平衡感。
WHERE
el Bodegón
Panyu Lu:
2/F, 326 Panyu Lu, near Fahuazhen Lu
番禺路326号2楼， 近法华镇路
Mon-Fri 5-10:30pm
Sat 11am-10:30pm
Sun 11am-10pm
Tel: 62260780
Changshu Lu:
4/F, 83 Changshu Lu, near Julu Lu
常熟路83号4楼, 近巨鹿路
Mon-Fri 5-10:30pm
Sat 4-10:30pm
Sun 12-10pm
Tel: 54651275
Scan the QR code below to
make a reservation at
el Bodegón Panyu Lu
扫描下方二维码完成el Bodegón（番禺路店）预订
▼
